Food, fire and the Slovenian wild

There is something about campfire cooking that brings me unparalleled satisfaction. It’s not all that smoke, wood, caveman thing. It’s the simplicity of it that I love. Last summer, I spent a couple of glorious days hiking in Slovenia. There were six of us in total; two French, a Slovenian, a Bulgarian, a German, and

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jam omelette

Reduce waste? Look to our grandmothers

“Today, people may think of eating “waste” as a novelty exercise or a passing culinary trend, but really it’s the basis of cuisine – codifying a way of farming, cooking, and eating that responds to the demands of a landscape. How do we make these traditions accessible for everyday eaters? The first step is simple:

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How to make… mayo

My mum is a stickler for mayo. The homemade kind. Had I not watched her make it so often I’d have dismissed it as a cheffy thing nobody really does. We tend to overthink it. We hear the word emulsify and turn immediately for the Hellman’s, but this is a mistake. The ease and time it

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Wild greens Bedouin stew

For someone who cooks, eats, reads and writes about food everyday (and travels halfway around the world to learn about it), I am so often humbled by how much I have still to grasp. Especially so, when the answers are growing quietly wild in my back garden. This particular lesson came courtesy of forager/great cook/country

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A few dusty onions

“If you ever find yourself longing to cook a good vegetable but there is none in sight, get a deep pot and dig eight to ten plain, big, dusty onions from your pantry, or the cold, dark onion bin at your nearest store. Then caramelise them.” …how Tamar Adler starts the chapter, How to Find

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How to make… tahini

Tahini. That nutty sesame seed paste, and backbone to many a good hummus, can be made at home with minimal effort. It requires sesame seeds, a flavourless oil, and about 10 minutes of your time. And it goes something like this… Place at least 100g of sesame seeds in a dry frying pan. Any less will make it

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Beautiful brassicas

Anyone seen the latest series of Chef’s Table? As usual, it’s bowling me over, and making me want to take to the wind again, to foreign lands and new food-inspired adventures. If you haven’t and need a place to begin, watch episode one, Jeong Kwan. The South Korean Zen Buddhist nun, who in her words

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How to make… yoghurt

Yoghurt starts with yoghurt. Just a spoon of it. Then all you need are a couple pints of full-fat milk, a thermos flask and 8 hours of no work whatsover, to get you a whole big lot of it. Thick tangy lovely yoghurt. No effort, a lot less plastic and a few quid saved. My grandma would

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Bean broth, made good

Bean broth, bean juice, bean liquid. Whatever appetising name you like to call it (there aren’t any), that murky liquid from a tin of butter beans or the cooking water from a tender chickpea, is liquid gold. Liquid gold! Especially, when saved for a rainy, bare-fridge kinda day. That day was yesterday. A jar of chickpea cooking

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