How to make… mayo

My mum is a stickler for mayo. The homemade kind. Had I not watched her make it so often I’d have dismissed it as a cheffy thing nobody really does. We tend to overthink it. We hear the word emulsify and turn immediately for the Hellman’s, but this is a mistake. The ease and time it

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A few dusty onions

“If you ever find yourself longing to cook a good vegetable but there is none in sight, get a deep pot and dig eight to ten plain, big, dusty onions from your pantry, or the cold, dark onion bin at your nearest store. Then caramelise them.” …how Tamar Adler starts the chapter, How to Find

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How to make… tahini

Tahini. That nutty sesame seed paste, and backbone to many a good hummus, can be made at home with minimal effort. It requires sesame seeds, a flavourless oil, and about 10 minutes of your time. And it goes something like this… Place at least 100g of sesame seeds in a dry frying pan. Any less will make it

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How to make… yoghurt

Yoghurt starts with yoghurt. Just a spoon of it. Then all you need are a couple pints of full-fat milk, a thermos flask and 8 hours of no work whatsover, to get you a whole big lot of it. Thick tangy lovely yoghurt. No effort, a lot less plastic and a few quid saved. My grandma would

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Bean broth, made good

Bean broth, bean juice, bean liquid. Whatever appetising name you like to call it (there aren’t any), that murky liquid from a tin of butter beans or the cooking water from a tender chickpea, is liquid gold. Liquid gold! Especially, when saved for a rainy, bare-fridge kinda day. That day was yesterday. A jar of chickpea cooking

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To hummus. A love letter

I knew I couldn’t leave Israel or Palestine without talking about hummus. That ubiquitous chickpea paste that is impossible to avoid in the Middle East. And it’s good here. So good! I can’t decide whether it’s the quality of the tahini, the way the chickpeas are cooked or the very specific way it’s served depending on

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Tahini biscuits, rescued

I was thinking of calling this post Why I can’t bake and possible solutions, but I thought that would be off-putting. But I’ll be honest upfront, I can’t bake. Keep this in mind when I say I made tahini biscuits today, under the very straight-forward instructions of Galia, my Israeli workaway host and mother of this little

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boiled eggs

A pot of peelings

There is no good reason to throw onion peelings straight to the compost. The robes of a humble onion serve a far nobler purpose, and that is to make boiled eggs taste (and look) better. This is a new discovery for me, and one that I learnt at my latest workaway in Israel. I’ve been spending my days with

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Fiery and fresh: a relish from Yemen

Before you shrug and scroll on, this is not pesto. This is a potent, fiery, fresh hit of a relish, and it’s from Yemen. It’s zhoug. I’ve tried to write how you say it, but impossible. Mainly because I can barely actually say it so… Yemenite food is entrenched in Israel. Or I should say Yemenite

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